My Perfectly Imperfect Hall/Radiator Table

This post is sponsored by Minwax. As always, all opinions are 100% my own.

Today on IG I shared the process of building my DIY hall/radiator table, and now I’m going to outline the process here and show you how I finished it with my favorite Minwax® stain!

This post is sponsored by Minwax. As always, all opinions are 100% my own.

I’ve always wanted a foyer. And now that we have one, I realized there wasn’t much space for decor, so I came up with the idea to build something to go over the small radiator to add a little personality to this space and to create a little drop zone as all entry ways should have.

Since space was limited, I needed to create something that was either wall mounted, like a shelf to go over the radiator with shelf brackets, or something a little more substantial, that would help ground the newly thrifted mirror I recently hung in this space.

The inspo for this table came from the “Perfectly Imperfect Coffee Table” I built a couple of years ago.

I began to sketch out exactly what I was envisioning and then I got to work!

This little table was built as I went, so I had to get a little creative and improvise on some parts to make it work how I wanted it to. If anything, I hope it inspires you to create something similar.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

Minwax® Wood Finish Penetrating Stain in Special Walnut
Minwax®Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane in Clear Satin
Miter saw
2” corner bracket
1-1x6x8 (for top and shelf, may need longer depending on length of your table)
2-1x2x8
1-2×2
1-3/4” wood screws
2” Wood screws
Nail gun and brad nails
Wood Glue
3/32 Drill bit
Wood filler
Sanding Block

WHAT TO DO:

Cut down the 1×6 board to 4-24″ pieces (only 3 are shown)
Next cut down a 1×2 board into 3-8” pieces.
Next decide on the height of your table, taking the height of your table top into account. I decided that I wanted the height of my table to be about 34″, so I cut my 2x2s to 33″.

Line up 2-1x6s boards leaving space between them and use the 3-8″ 1×2’s as a sort of mending plate for the table top, spacing them out evenly and attaching them to the 1x6s with 1 3/4″ screws. Do the same with the other two 1x6s for the shelf.

Next, line up the 2×2’s at the front corners of the table and screw them in 2 spots diagonally using a 2” wood screw
*Remember to pre-drill using a 3/32 Drill bit to avoid the wood splitting*

Flip the table over. Measure and cut a 1×2 to fit snugly in between the table legs to serve as an apron. And also cut 1×2’s to fit between the legs and back of the table (these are the side aprons).

Using 2” screws, I secured the aprons to the underside of the table, pre-drilling the holes first.

Next, cut another 1×2 to fit between the two legs, secure with 2′” screws from the outside of the legs.

This piece will serve as support for the shelf. On the front of the shelf boards, trace a 2×2 in the front 2 corners.

Using a jig saw or oscillating tool, cut out the front corners so the shelf will fit in with the legs. I rested the shelf on the 1×2 support bar, and attached it with brad nails.

Lastly, I used a piece of scrap 2×2 to support the back side of the shelf and attached it with 2″ wood screws. I also used a corner bracket to attach the table to the wall.

In hindsight, one piece of 1×2 placed in the center of the back, with predrilled holes, would have worked better, and the table could have been anchored to the wall by the 1×2, rather than using a separate corner bracket.

Lastly, cut 6 -1x2s triangular pieces on the miter saw, by setting the blade to 45 degrees, to serve as a decorative corner bracket.

Finishing the Table

Although Minwax offers limitless color options, I’m partial to Special Walnut, as I’ve used it on several different projects. I gave it a light sanding and then began staining it using Minwax Wood Finish Penetrating Stain.